Crossover assembly 101

Guy 13 · « **Reply #20 on:** 11 Jul 2010, 09:48 am »

Quote from: Danny on 10 Jul 2010, 07:30 pm

Okay, I just made this topic a sticky.

H Danny.
My crossovers looks nice and I am glad to see that they are now ready to be shipped.
As you know already, I am now in Montreal, I took the first flight from Vietnam to Montreal Canada to see my sick 87 years old mother, but I arrived too late, she had pass away already, therefore now I have to organize the funural with my family.
I should be back in Vietnam middle of August to complete the assembly of my V2.
Thanks.
Guy 13.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #21 on:** 11 Jul 2010, 01:23 pm »

I am really sorry to hear that about your mother. My condolence's to you and your family.

Fatawan · « **Reply #22 on:** 11 Jul 2010, 01:36 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 10 Jul 2010, 01:54 am

And this network, as easy as it was to assemble, has more parts, and takes slightly longer to build than most of the other kits that I offer. Only the Super-V, and three way kits like the O-3, OB-5, OB-7, and OB-7 Plus are more complex.

So if you are looking at any of my A/V series kits, N1's, N1X, N2X, N3, N3S, or the V-1, then all of them are even easier than this one.

You forgot the hopelessly complex Anarchy kit crossover!

Danny Richie · « **Reply #23 on:** 11 Jul 2010, 02:23 pm »

Quote

You forgot the hopelessly complex Anarchy kit crossover!

Oh, it is still not that bad. It only has four more total components than this one does. It is still just a connect the dots game.

Besides when you split it up into two separate boards (one for the woofer and one for the tweeter) then each one is easier than this one. The bummer was that it required a network like that. There was just really no way around it.

NeilT · « **Reply #24 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 06:41 pm »

Hi Danny,
Could you post a pic of a foil inductor connection?
Thanks,
Neil

aharami · « **Reply #25 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 07:30 pm »

Danny, where do you recommend installing the network inside the N3 cabinet? All the way at the bottom, right above the brace H?

ebag4 · « **Reply #26 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 07:33 pm »

Quote from: aharami on 12 Jul 2010, 07:30 pm

Danny, where do you recommend installing the network inside the N3 cabinet? All the way at the bottom, right above the brace H?

I'm not Danny but I installed it on the brace behind the Neo3PDR. That way you only have to run one pair of wires up from the binding posts.

Best,
Ed

Danny Richie · « **Reply #27 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 07:39 pm »

Quote

Could you post a pic of a foil inductor connection?

I'll do it.

aharami · « **Reply #28 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 08:13 pm »

Quote from: ebag4 on 12 Jul 2010, 07:33 pm

I'm not Danny but I installed it on the brace behind the Neo3PDR. That way you only have to run one pair of wires up from the binding posts.

Best,
Ed

i see, thanks! so are they mounted vertically against the rear panel, or horizontally, on top of brace B? Isnt brace B the ones with two semicircle cuts on each end? So are the networks covering some of that cutout space, or are the networks small enough to fit in the 4.5" x 6.5" space between the semicircle cuts?

ebag4 · « **Reply #29 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 08:20 pm »

Quote from: aharami on 12 Jul 2010, 08:13 pm

i see, thanks! so are they mounted vertically against the rear panel, or horizontally, on top of brace B? Isnt brace B the ones with two semicircle cuts on each end? So are the networks covering some of that cutout space, or are the networks small enough to fit in the 4.5" x 6.5" space between the semicircle cuts?

Mine fit between the cutouts, but it is a bit tight.

Best,
Ed

Danny Richie · « **Reply #30 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 08:54 pm »

Okay, I pulled an old inductor that had an inner lead torn off of it to use as an example.

First cut the lead down so that it is not very long and fold a V or U shape into it so that it will easily hold solder and so that it will allow a little folding that can be done while soldering the wire to it.

Then put the soldering gun into it and heat it up will feeding solder into it.

You'll also have to tin the wire.

Then put the soldering gun onto the inductor and heat that solder up until it starts to flow then insert the wire so that it is making good contact with the foil.

If you are real good then you can squeeze it with needle noise pliers while it is still hot and fold the foil over the wire to make a nice crimped connection too.

Then just slide your heat shrink down over it to seal it.

See, that was easy too.

mms3 · « **Reply #31 on:** 12 Jul 2010, 08:55 pm »

Quote from: aharami on 12 Jul 2010, 08:13 pm

i see, thanks! so are they mounted vertically against the rear panel, or horizontally, on top of brace B? Isnt brace B the ones with two semicircle cuts on each end? So are the networks covering some of that cutout space, or are the networks small enough to fit in the 4.5" x 6.5" space between the semicircle cuts?

Keep in mind that if you're using NoRez, that will take up a couple inches as well. So, it's more like 4.5" x 4.5".

NeilT · « **Reply #32 on:** 13 Jul 2010, 02:34 pm »

Thank you Danny for the foil inductor pictures and instuctions.
Good luck and hang in there.
Neil

NeilT · « **Reply #33 on:** 27 Jul 2010, 02:13 am »

Hi Danny,
See anything wrong with this layout?
Thanks
Neil

Danny Richie · « **Reply #34 on:** 27 Jul 2010, 07:47 pm »

Neil,

The main thing to keep in mind is inductor orientation. In this case, you're fine.

The second thing that I shoot for is lining everything up so that little to no wire is needed to connect everything. This is not critical but it helps make assembly easier.

Also keep in mind that you need to chop those inductor leads down short like in the pictures that I posted above.

NeilT · « **Reply #35 on:** 27 Jul 2010, 08:06 pm »

Thank you Danny
Neil

dvenardos · « **Reply #36 on:** 28 Jul 2010, 04:39 am »

The AV-1RS was my first build and I was really tight on wire.

Quote from: Danny on 27 Jul 2010, 07:47 pm

The second thing that I shoot for is lining everything up so that little to no wire is needed to connect everything. This is not critical but it helps make assembly easier.

eclein · « **Reply #37 on:** 28 Jul 2010, 10:44 pm »

Danny-Great thread!!!!!! Thank you for the time you put in!!

Savage · « **Reply #38 on:** 12 Sep 2010, 09:56 am »

If it wasn't for this thread, I don't think I would have ever bought my LS6 cabinets at the auction. Would it be possible to see a Crossover layout for these so I have an idea what I got myself into?

I was thinking that along with the kits, it would be nice if you supplied a suggested crossover layout. That way it not only would be easier and less intimidating for crossover virgins like me, but also to troubleshoot either initial problems or repairs down the pike. If most people followed the layout, it would make servicing these custom speakers easier if most of us followed convention. If they were posted online, I think more of us may be willing to give it a shot. Sometimes I look at the piles of components and think that's beyond my experience level, but as you so thoroughly described here, it's not that hard. Just a thought.

Do you need to use a low-temperature hot glue for gluing components? The heat doesn't harm them? I'm just afraid of soldering and hot gluing $75 capacitors. Also, I'll probably pick up a new soldering iron. Any suggestions for a good quality unit?

I am glad that the LS6 crossovers are hidden; my soldering isn't that good.

mojave · « **Reply #39 on:** 13 Sep 2010, 09:36 pm »

Savage, Danny bought some LS-6 crossovers and bass management boards at the av123 auction. He will probably be including these in the build kits so you won't have to solder anything.