Vinyl tweekers - this is your fave sticky post!!

Wayner · « **Reply #40 on:** 27 Nov 2008, 02:02 pm »

While smelling the turkey cooking, I sat down in front of my Technics SL-1200, to try and flatten out the dust cover. It was off of the surface of the plinth in the back by almost 1/4" and looked real stupid. To my shocking discovery (now I feel really stupid) I found out the brackets mounted to the turntable body that the hinges fit into have slotted holes.

Loosening the 2 screw on each bracket, let the cover slip down and be nice and flush with the plinth! I think I'm on a roll! Oh well.

Wayner

lofreek · « **Reply #41 on:** 5 Feb 2009, 04:28 pm »

The use of digital audio editing software to allow careful analysis of the waveforms produced by test records. I use Sound Forge, but any such software will work. For example, one can record a sine wave sweep, zoom way in, and look for nice rounded peaks. If they are flattened, something is wrong - this is distortion, which may not have been audible. Does it afflict both channels, or just one? Is it the preamp, or is it bad tracking? Save the file, make an adjustment, run it again, and compare. Did it get better, worse, or no change?

You can get your channel phasing very precise with this method - zoom way in again on a recorded waveform. Check to see that both channels are crossing zero at exactly the same time. If the left channel is early, the cartridge needs to go slightly clockwise. Save, adjust, run it again, and compare. Better, worse, no change?

Same process for crosstalk adjustment and VTA - record, analyze, interpret, adjust, repeat. The more you do it, the better you will get at interpreting the results, as well as knowing what to do. This is much better than eyeballing and/or trying to do it by ear.

Stephen Scharf · « **Reply #42 on:** 15 Feb 2009, 06:43 am »

1) One of the best upgrades I've made to my Rega Planar 3 is using a GrooveTracer Reference Subplatter, the one with the sapphire jewel in the bottom of the spindle bearing. The noise floor went through the floor when I installed this.

2) Place your turntable on a 12" child's bicycle inner tube inflated to about 10-12 psi. Works wonders for a more musical, airier, and open sounding presentation.

3) You can also use squash balls resting on 2" or 3" Quik Caps to get the same effect as the inner tube.

4) A rollerblock system works well for dealing with horizontal and rotational seismic resonances. I made a set using plastic furniture cups which had concave interiors and wooden balls, though stainless balls would be better. The description is here: http://forum.stereophile.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=58843&an=0&page=0#Post58843

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #43 on:** 9 Dec 2009, 12:58 am »

Quote from: risabet on 8 Mar 2008, 09:57 pm

Linn Ittok specific- place two of Herbies HAL-O Jr, dampers on the arm right behind the headshell and and a little past the halfway point towards the bearing. This is the simplest mod for the Ittok but it tames the "splashy "quality of the arm and allows a significant increase in clarity and detail retrieval, $10.00. This may work with other arms whereas many arms may not benefit. Remember to reset VTF when adding the dampers. .

I experimented with modeling clay once and you could really adjust the sound with it. As I remember, I was able to make the sound fuller and weightier.

Wonder what Rollerblock jr's and a Svelte Shelf would do under my table. Using a butcher block number and some steel cones now. Got the former under my pre. Hmmmm.

mmakshak · « **Reply #44 on:** 26 Dec 2009, 06:32 pm »

Mapleshades 2-inch maple with their isoblocks underneath. I now have a Mana Reference Table under my Linn, and I wouldn't go back, but this transformed my suspended Ariston TT. I never did try their brass cones with this setup, nor their $6 maple blocks(which is where I would start). Mapleshade's triplepoint(they have 3 points on top) brass footers under my Linn LIngo I motor controller. I have this sitting on Mapleshade's 2-inch maple platform with their isoblocks underneath, all sitting on a Cambre' Timber rack. I was thinking of upgrading my Lingo I to the II until I tried this. I think this might beat a Lingo II(just guessing). BTW, Linn's newer felt mat is a worthwhile upgrade to their older(mine was from 1992) felt mat. Fine tuning arm heighth(VTA), tracking force(VTF), and anti-skate can make huge differences. I did not try to mess with the shop's setup of the actual cartridge, because that requires me to take the arm off to tighten the screws. I will try to put in ideas on anti-skate later, as I believe this is tricky. Most information on anti-skate is incorrect, or pertains to uni-pivot arms.

BobM · « **Reply #45 on:** 28 Jan 2010, 08:14 pm »

The proper way to set anti-skate is by ear.

Start out way low on the anti skate, after you have the cartridge alignment and VTA and tracking force dialed in. This is the last step. Listen to the dynamics of a piece od music you know well, use something that has some continual dynamic, like an uptempo drum and cymbal, as well as voice; specially the right channel. Then slowly raise the anti-skate a bit at a time and reassess. Go slowly and only move a little bit at a time. You should hear the dynamics in the right channel come up slowly as the anti-skate increases, then eventually both channels will begin to improve. Keep going a wee bit at a time and you will hear the dynamics and quality fall off pretty suddenly. Back it up a bit until they come back and ... there you go.

mmakshak · « **Reply #46 on:** 29 Jan 2010, 05:40 pm »

BobM, you have an interesting method. For the average person, I would not dismiss the cartridge manufacturers' recommendations. I would also look at any reviews of the cartridge(and maybe tonearm). BobM, I believe the Morch DP6 is a gimballed arm(dual pivot), and not a uni-pivot arm. That is an important piece of information, I believe. I'm not sure what effect on anti-skate the lower counterweight has(although it should have a good effect on a lot of things). My take on the lower anti-skate(lower than the VTF number) is this: Harry Pearson of Absolute Sound found that the lower anti-skate, the better, on a Koetsu Rosewood. Sumiko, I believe, advocates about 1/2 the anti-skate number compared to the tracking force(VTF) on many of its cartridges. There is a very knowledgable guy on Audiogon(Rauligeus?-if I look it up, I lose this post.) who advocates a much lower anti-skate than the published specs, but note that he likes moving magnet cartridges with their(generally) less stiff cantilevers. I still think for someone not versed in anti-skate, the best place to start(to hear what anti-skate does) is the same number as the VTF, unless the manufacturer or a reviewer state differently.

rollo · « **Reply #47 on:** 29 Jan 2010, 07:34 pm »

Quote from: risabet on 8 Mar 2008, 09:57 pm

Linn Ittok specific- place two of Herbies HAL-O Jr, dampers on the arm right behind the headshell and and a little past the halfway point towards the bearing. This is the simplest mod for the Ittok but it tames the "splashy "quality of the arm and allows a significant increase in clarity and detail retrieval, $10.00. This may work with other arms whereas many arms may not benefit. Remember to reset VTF when adding the dampers. .

well made the plunge for my LP12, matt and dampers, will let you know.

charles

BobM · « **Reply #48 on:** 29 Jan 2010, 08:23 pm »

Quote from: mmakshak on 29 Jan 2010, 05:40 pm

BobM, you have an interesting method. For the average person, I would not dismiss the cartridge manufacturers' recommendations. I would also look at any reviews of the cartridge(and maybe tonearm). BobM, I believe the Morch DP6 is a gimballed arm(dual pivot), and not a uni-pivot arm. That is an important piece of information, I believe. I'm not sure what effect on anti-skate the lower counterweight has(although it should have a good effect on a lot of things). My take on the lower anti-skate(lower than the VTF number) is this: Harry Pearson of Absolute Sound found that the lower anti-skate, the better, on a Koetsu Rosewood. Sumiko, I believe, advocates about 1/2 the anti-skate number compared to the tracking force(VTF) on many of its cartridges. There is a very knowledgable guy on Audiogon(Rauligeus?-if I look it up, I lose this post.) who advocates a much lower anti-skate than the published specs, but note that he likes moving magnet cartridges with their(generally) less stiff cantilevers. I still think for someone not versed in anti-skate, the best place to start(to hear what anti-skate does) is the same number as the VTF, unless the manufacturer or a reviewer state differently.

Whatever the manuracturer recommends, it's still just an approximation. You can actually hear changes as you adjust this up or down from there. It's just that most people don't know what to listen for. Well ... I just told you what to listen for and how to optomize it for your arm and cartridge and VTF setting. Generally the anti-skate will come in lower than the VTF, and whatever you do don't do that no groove record thing. That has no bearing on what anti-skate should be and is completely misleading.

toobluvr · « **Reply #49 on:** 29 Jan 2010, 10:46 pm »

Quote from: BobM on 28 Jan 2010, 08:14 pm

....like an uptempo drum and cymbal, as well as voice; specially the right channel. Then slowly raise the tracking force a bit at a time .....as the tracking force increases, then eventually both channels will begin to improve.......

tracking force?

did you mean to say "bias" or "anti skate force", Bob?

vinyl_guy · « **Reply #50 on:** 31 Jan 2010, 03:47 am »

I took my system apart today to install a PSAudio Soloist Premier outlet in place of a regular Power Port outlet on a dedicated cirucit. I took the opportunity to clean connections and remove the O rings that were covering the stainless steel ball bearings on the bottom of the feet of my SME TT. The TT is now resting on 4 ball bearings on top of a 4" maple block isolated from the top shelf of a SolidSteel 6.4 rack by 4 Mapleshade rubber/cork isolation blocks. Another thin veil has been lifted--great clarity and detail with kick-ass bass from an absolutely silent "black" background.

Laura

BobM · « **Reply #51 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 03:38 pm »

Quote from: toobluvr on 29 Jan 2010, 10:46 pm

tracking force?

did you mean to say "bias" or "anti skate force", Bob?

I did edit my post to make it consistent. Thanks

loki1957 · « **Reply #52 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 04:53 pm »

I had my cart. set up with the Feikert program by Brian at http://www.essentialaudio.com/.
He spent a lot of time shimming the cart to get what the computer program said was correct. Unfortunately for Brian the Linn tone arm doesn't have adjustment for azimuth. He had to be very gentle and patient taking the cart off and on numerous times. Better him than me. After everything was set up properly I've spent the last day listening. The biggest thing I notice is an over all clarity to the music. The whole sonic range is tightened up. Especially the treble. Images are more focused. I think I can listen at higher volume levels as well. Always a good thing. Over all it is a very good up grade if you will. It certainly makes sense to me to try and get everything you tt has to offer. I now know my analog rig is as good as it gets in it's current configuration. Get it done to your tables. You'll be happy you did. Highly recommended.

mmakshak · « **Reply #53 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 06:37 pm »

I agree with that no groove record thing, BobM. One of the main reasons I recommend starting with the manufacturers specifications is to alleviate doubt. I think it is a good place to start, until you hear what anti-skate does. I also think it is a good place to start if you are adjusting anything else. Please do these things one at a time until you understand what changing them does.

TONEPUB · « **Reply #54 on:** 1 Feb 2010, 07:34 pm »

Why would you add all that mass to the Linn arm?

I'll pass on that one....

rollo · « **Reply #55 on:** 3 Feb 2010, 06:18 pm »

Quote from: TONEPUB on 1 Feb 2010, 07:34 pm

Why would you add all that mass to the Linn arm?

I'll pass on that one....

Installed the Herbies dampers on the arm. Readjusted the balance and reset tracking force. The answer withoutbeing cute itsounds so much more controlled with better focus and tighter bass.
Second the so far the best $90 improvement I've tried. There was an unmarked black car outside the house, ya think Ivor sent them ?

charles

charles

jimdgoulding · « **Reply #56 on:** 6 Mar 2011, 06:57 pm »

Quote from: djbnh on 11 Aug 2006, 10:46 am

1) Use Walker SST on the cartridge pins. Apply carefully according to the SST directions. Provides a very nice increase in detail, etc. Also apply on TT RCA connectors, etc.

2) For Rega and various other TTs, use the Pete Riggle VTAF. Takes a bit of time and patience to install. Makes dialing in the VTAF on-the-fly a snap, wonderful enhancement to the sound of your kit. There's various reviews of this on the web.

3) For Rega/Origin tonearms, install the J.A. Michell Tecnoweight. Ditto various reviews on-line.

Good circle, Chair dude! I had forgotten about it

and didn't even know Pete Riggle existed. My next audio purchse is the VTAF and I'm excited.

hifipaul · « **Reply #57 on:** 4 Jun 2011, 03:12 am »

Lead tape, wrapped around the outer rim of the platter, will clear up the mids and put some slam into the bass. Available from golf and tennis pro supply houses. It also cuts down platter ringing.

A self stick vinyl floor tile, cut out as a platter mat, will dampen the ringing of most light weight platters.

Old timer · « **Reply #58 on:** 6 Nov 2011, 04:40 pm »

We fooled around with arm wraps in the 1980's. At that time, 3M had a tape which worked very well, dampening arm vibrations.

It worked wonders then, maybe I should try it again?

Has anyone tried this who can recommend materials?

cheap-Jack · « **Reply #59 on:** 17 Nov 2011, 09:28 pm »

Hi.

Does it occur to you vinyl fans a well-built platform to support our TT is crucial?

c-J
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." quoted Albert Einstein.